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welcome to the island of Spetses - GREECE |
Spetses is a small pine forested island that has proved to be popular with English tourists for many years. It can be reached via daily ferries from the Athenian port of Piraeus, or by taking a water taxi from the nearby village of Kosta on the Greek mainland. There is at present a limited ban on the use of private cars on the island. Spetses town, sometimes called Dapia after the name of its port, is the only substantial settlement on Spetses island. With the lack of private motor cars, the town exudes a more relaxed atmosphere than can be found on many other islands. The horse and traps that run back and forth along the water front only adds to the feeling that this could be a good place to simply lay back and relax. Apart from the main square, it is, in many ways not the prettiest of Greek towns, but it still houses many fine old mansions. Around the old harbour can be found the usual mix of tavernas and bars, but as the resort is also very popular with some of the more well to do Athenians who own villas on Spetses island, prices can be higher than you would normally expect to pay on the average Greek island. Some of the best Spetses beaches can be reached via the boats that leave the harbour each morning during the holiday season. The best beach on the island is usually considered to be Agia Anargiri on the opposite side of the island from the main town, here there are a couple of good tavernas, and watersports in the high season. If you prefer something a little quieter, then not far from Agia Anargiri is the beach at Agia Paraskevi |
Spetses town (aka Kastelli) meanders along the harbor and inland in a lazy fashion, with most of its neoclassical mansions partly hidden from envious eyes by high walls and greenery. Much of the town's street life takes place on the Dapia, the square where the ferries and hydrofoils now arrive. The Old Harbor, Baltiza, largely silted up, lies just east of town, before the popular swimming spots at Agia Marina.
If you sit at a cafe on the Dapia, you'll eventually see pretty much everyone in town passing by. The handsome black-and-white pebble mosaic commemorates the moment during the War of Independence when the first flag with the motto "Freedom or Death" was raised. Thanks to its large fleet, Spetses played an important part in the War of Independence, routing the Turks in the Straits of Spetses on September 8, 1822. The victory is commemorated every year on the weekend closest to September 8 with celebrations, church services, and the burning of a ship that symbolizes the defeated Turkish fleet. As you stroll along the waterfront, you'll notice the monumental bronze statue of a woman, her left arm shielding her eyes as she looks out to sea. The statue honors one of the greatest heroes of the War of Independence, Laskarina Bouboulina, the daughter of a naval captain from Hydra. Bouboulina financed the warship Agamemnon, oversaw its construction, served as its captain, and was responsible for several naval victories. She was said to be able to drink any man under the table, and Straitfaced citizens sniped that she was so ugly, the only way she could keep a lover was with a gun |
You can see where Boubouiina lived when she was ashore by visiting Laskarina Bouboulina House in Pefkakia, just off the port. It keeps flexible hours (posted on the house) but is usually open mornings and afternoons from Easter until October. An English-speaking guide often gives a half-hour tour. Admission is 4€ ($5.20). You can even see Bouboulina's bones, along with archaeological finds and mementos of the War of Independence, at Spetses Mexis Museum, in the handsome stone Mexis mansion (signposted on the waterfront). Hours are Tuesday to Sunday 9:30am to 230pm admission is 3€ ($3.90). If you head cast away from the Dapia, you'll come to the picturesque Paleo Limani (aka the Baltiza or Old Harbor), where many wealthy yacht owners moor their boats. Cathedral of Agios Nikolaos (St. Nikolas) is the oldest church in town; it has a lovely bell tower on which Spetses island raised its first Greek flag. A pebble mosaic shows tile event, as do a number of similar pebble mosaics in Spetses town. While you're at the Old Harbor, have a look at the boatyards, where you can usually see k,ikia (caiques) being made with tools little different from those used when Bouboulina's might}' Agameffirrorr was built here.
Spetses beaches
Agia Marina, sigupostcd and about a 30-minute walk east of Spetses town, is the best town beach. It has a number of tavernas, cafes, and discos. On the south side of the island, Agii Anargiri has one of the best sandy beaches anywhere in the Saronic Gulf, a perfect C-shaped cove lined with trees, bars, and tavernas. (We prefer Taverna Tassos.) The best way to get here is by water taxi. Whichever beach you pick, go early, as both can be seriously crowded by midday. Some prefer the beach at Agia Paraskevi, which is smaller and more private because it's so closely bordered by pine trees. Located here are a cantina and Villa Yasemia, residence of The Magus himself. West over some rocks is the island's official nudist beach. Zogeria is on the northwest coast, with a few places to eat and some pretty rocky coves for swimming. West of Spetses town, Paradise beach is crowded, littered, and to be avoided. |
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