The closest decent beach to Vathi is Gagou, 2km (1 mile) north of the pier. But the best beaches on
Samos are found along the north coast, the most beautiful and rugged part of the island. The busy seaside resort of Kokkari, lOkm (6 miles) west of Vathi, has several beaches in rock coves as well as the crowded stretch of sand running parallel to the town's main road. To find the smaller cove beaches, head seaward from the main square. Just west of Kokkari is Tsamadou, a short walk down from the coast road, which offers sufficient seclusion for nude sunbathing. Continue west past Karlovassi to find Potami, an excellent long pebble-and-sand beach with road access.
The two best beaches on
Samos island, Micro Seitani and Megalo Seitani, are accessible only by boat or on foot. Boat excursions depart daily from the pier in Karlovassi. To get here on foot, continue past the parking lot for the beach at Potami on a dirt road; walking time to the first beach is 45 minutes. After about 5 minutes of uphill walking, the road splits-turn right, continuing to follow the coast. After another 5 minutes of walking, three obvious paths turn off to the right in close succession. Take the third, marked by a cairn, and follow the well-worn path another halfhour to Micro Seitani, a glorious pebble-and-cobble beach in a rocky cove. On the beach's far side, a ladder scales the cliff to the trail which will take you after an additional 30 minutes of walking to Megalo Seitani, as incredible a stretch of sea sand as any in the Aegean. At the far end of Megalo Seitani are a few houses and a taverna; the near end, at the outlet of a magnificent cliff-walled gorge, is completely undeveloped.
Samos has many dirt roads and trails perfect for mountain biking. The only obstacles are the size of the island, which limits the number of routes available for day trips, and the fact that much of the backcountry is off-limits due to Greek military operations. Bike rentals, information about trails, and guided mountain-bike tours are available in Vathi at Bike, managed by the friendly and knowledgeable Yiannis Sofoulis. The shop is open daily from 8:30am to 2pm and 5 to 9pm,it's behind the old church opposite the port, on the market street. The bikes are high quality and the rental includes helmet, pump, and repair kit; clipless pedals and shoes are also available for an extra charge. The basic aluminum-frame bike is 10€ ($13) per day; the full-suspension bike is 18€ ($23). Some of the best walking on
Samos island is in and around the Platanakia region of Samos's north coast, where well-marked trails connect several lovely hilltop villages. Manolates and Vourliotes (see above) are among the villages on this network of trails. A trail goes from Manolates to the summit of Mount Ambelos, the secondhighest peak on Samos at 1,153m (3,780 ft.), the demanding round-trip takes about 5 hours. Those seeking a more "professional" exploration of the truly natural Samos might be interested in the British outfit, Nature Trek (www.naturetrek.co.uk), whose trained botanists and ornithologists lead 8-day trips from
London that track the island's flora and fauna.
The
Island of Samos has a remarkable wine heritage, stretching back perhaps as far as 1200 BC. It’s famous for its sweet dessert wines made from the Muscat grape. The fact that all production is controlled by the Cooperative (full name The Union Of Winemaking Cooperative of
Samos, est. 1934) doesn’t sound too promising for wine quality, but in fact they do a very good job. They have two wineries, located in Malagali and Karlovasi. The grapes are grown on the slopes of Mount Ampelos, up to a height of 900 m, with the best wines coming from vineyards at 500–600 m altitude. At under £10 per bottle for the top cuvees, these wines offer brilliant value for money, as well as considerable personality.